June 24, 2006
In Search of Sherlock Holmes
Perhaps no other literary figure is so firmly associated with their surroundings as the famous fictional detective Sherlock Holmes. Think of Holmes and you conjure up a vision of 19th century London, at the time the largest metropolis in the world, with its gas-lit foggy streets, the rattle of the hansom cabs and the piercing shriek of a policeman’s whistle. Parts of London have changed little in the hundred years or so since Holmes and Watson walked the streets and there are many reminders of Holmes’ life.
Of course, anyone interested in following in the footsteps of Holmes should begin at 221B Baker St - perhaps the most famous address in the world. If you arrive in Baker Street by Underground railway, you can admire the walls of the Metropolitan Line platforms which are decorated with colored murals depicting scenes from several of the Holmes stories.
The writer GK Chesterton suggested a statue of Holmes almost 70 years ago and his vision was recently realized. A 9 foot bronze statue of Holmes – complete with pipe - was recently unveiled outside the Marylebone Street exit of the station, designed by the English sculptor John Doubleday.
The site of 221B is today a small but fascinating museum which recreates the suite of rooms that Holmes and Watson occupied for many years. Visitors to the museum are met by the great man himself, or by Holmes’ landlady, the long-suffering Mrs. Hudson. Inside, the sitting room and bedrooms are faithfully reconstructed as depicted in the books, complete with Holmes’ odious chemical experiments, Persian slipper full of tobacco, and bullet holes in the walls.
The other unique reminder of Sherlock Holmes is the pub that bears his name, on Northumberland Street, just around the corner from Charing Cross station, one of London’s busy rail terminals which features in many of Doyle’s stories. The upstairs rooms of the pub contain a reconstruction of Holmes’ sitting room, originally exhibited at the Festival of Britain in 1951 and moved to this spot soon after.
If you need a break from all that sightseeing, you can sample excellent English food and drink in the pub at ‘Mrs. Hudson’s Pantry’ or simply admire the extensive collection of Holmes memorabilia.
However, if you really want to dine in style, one of Holmes’ favorite places to eat, which is mentioned in several of the books was Simpson’s on the Strand.100 years later, this celebrated restaurant still serves some of the best traditional English food in London and is well known for its superb roast beef. Carvers dressed in white still wheel joints of meat over to your table, where they lift silver covers to carve the beef in front of you. It’s a memorable setting to round off any trip to London.
