May 22, 2007
Ajijic: Recommended Village in Mexico to Visit
A few years ago, I discovered the tiny village of Ajijic (Ah-jee-jeek), on the shores of Lake Chapala in the state of Jalisco, Mexico. This discovery was not entirely by accident, however, as my parents had spent six months in the past in the nearby village of Chapala. Ajijic, or "The Place Where The Water Springs Forth," was first settled by the Nahuatl Indians around 1400 A.D., followed by the Franciscan missionaries and the Spanish conquistadors. The influence of all three cultures are still evident throughout the village. Ajijic is small, last estimate of population around 15,000, but that’s not counting the several thousand more "snowbirds," the Canadians, Europeans, and other North Americans who come here on vacation or set up residence for several months each year.
Since I live in the state of eternal summer, Texas, (or so it seems), I was pleasantly surprised on my first visit to Ajijic. I was able to sleep comfortably with windows and doors open and awake to a cool breeze and the fresh scent of mangoes, tangerines, and limes. At an altitude of some 5,000+ feet, the moderate climate is as close to perfect as you’ll get for most of the year. The summer rains that cascade down the mountainsides just after the sun sets are gone before dawn, leaving a fresh new world. The beauty of Ajijic lies in the gardens, the courtyards, and the patios, where even the humblest home has its own yard filled with flowers. Orchids, jacaranda, and bougainvillea spill over the high stone walls and wrought iron gates that enclose beautiful homes and outdoor restaurants.
The accommodations in Ajijic are, for the most part, quaint B&B’s such as the Nueva Posada, the Villa Eucaliptos, Hotel Casa Blanca, and La Paloma. Travelers can expect to find large, airy rooms, balconies, and lovely surroundings, as well as many of the modern amenities of home, with rates ranging from $55 to $95.00/night, including breakfast. The Quinta Quetzalcoatl in Chapala is a bit more expensive, but here you have a choice of rooms or suites, each appropriately named after D.H. Lawrence who stayed in this same villa in 1923, while writing "The Plumed Serpent". Fully furnished homes near the lake or on the hillsides are also available for extended vacations, with weekly and monthly rates from $700/month and up, depending upon location and size. Restaurants, offering a variety of food and beverages, are reasonably priced from $10.00 to $25.00 for a full-course meal.
There are art galleries and boutiques to visit, as well as many outdoor activities in and around the village such as golf, tennis, horseback riding, hiking, and boating. If you’re looking for more attractions and excitement, Guadalajara, the capital of Jalisco and the second largest city in Mexico, is less than an hour’s drive from Ajijic. This historic colonial city offers a variety of things to do and see including the Ballet Folklorico in the Degollado Theater, the museums, churches, parks, and six of the largest shopping plazas in the country. Other inexpensive side trips for a day or a weekend include Manzanillo, the sailfish capital of the world, Tequila, and Puerto Vallarta. If you prefer not to pay for a rental car or drive yourself, consider taking the bus. The buses in Mexico are far superior to those in other countries, at least in the U.S., and bus tours can be easily arranged by your hosts at the B&B to many points of interest nearby.
The people in Mexico love music and fiestas, celebrating holidays, birthdays, and weddings throughout the year. Wednesdays and Saturdays are market days, where you can find just about anything for sale in Ajijic and along the Carretera (main road around the lake shore). El Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) is celebrated in October, the Northern Lights Music Festival in February, and the 3-day Maestros del Arte show is held in November. For a few pesos, you can catch a local bus about every hour from the Carretera to visit the other small villages along the lakeshore.
Ajijic is a place where people go to relax, to gain inspiration, and to enjoy the simpler things in life - the sound of church bells from the tiny chapel on the hillside, the children’s laughter across the plaza on their way to school, the small boy leading a donkey with a load of firewood down 16th century cobblestone streets, and the early morning fisherman on the lake. I don’t believe you have to be a writer, an artist, or even a historian to enjoy a visit to Ajijic. It holds a certain fascination and appeal that is difficult to describe, and one you must discover for yourself.
Airlines: Many major airlines have frequent flights to Guadalajara from all major cities in the U.S., as well as flights to Mexico City, but this can get complicated. Taxis are readily available from the airport to Ajijic; however, many of the B&Bs provide transportation to and from the village.
This guest article was written by Sharon Slayton.
Posted by James Trotta at May 22, 2007 2:20 PM | TrackBack
I found your post very interesting. I too have been charmed by the area. My wife’s family is from Guadalajara and I have been visiting Chapala lake for years. The area was and is the weekend retreat for socialites from Guadalajara. It is very pleasant to go and see a side of Mexico that is not filled with mega all inclusive resorts.
Posted by: Brett Borkgren at May 23, 2007 8:46 PMA good, basic introduction to Ajijic, but somehow conveys the impression that most gringo expats are (a) from places other than the U.S., and (b) folks who only spend part of the year on the Lake. Neither is so. My brother and his wife have lived in Ajijic for a few years and do not return to the U.S. for much of anything. (I am a Texan like you, and they never come back to Corpus Christi anymore.) You do not mention at all the famous Lake Chapala Society, perhaps the most organized, most full-service organization of expats in all Mexico. For a small annual membership fee, you can make use of a VHS and DVD lending library, a book club, discounted medical services including annual flu shots, yoga classes, a drama group, and many other things, to say nothing of the fine company one can mix with. Their travel agency will get you cut-rate trips all over Mexico, and...well, I can't say enough about the L.C.S. After all, it was founded by a very special lady who left the buildings and grounds to the Society in her will. You also manage to convey the idea that Ajijic is pricey. Compared to nearby Chapala (about a ten-minute drive), it is more expensive, but when I was last there, you could find meals for a lot less than $10-25; in fact, some places, knowing many expats are living on tight budgets, will feed you dinner for about $5 apiece and breakfast for even less. (Don't forget, in Mexico, most people take their big meal in the early afternoon, the *comida,* which is a healthier and less expensive way to feed your face.) A tour guide I read dissed Ajijic by saying one wouldn't want to spend more than a couple of hours there. But after visiting myself, enjoying the tranquility and the slow pace of life, I think I could spend the rest of my life there. And since rentals are reasonable (some apartments and even houses going in the $400 a month range), I just may do it! --JiM
Posted by: James M. Martin at May 24, 2007 4:29 PMI found your post very interesting. I from Guadalajara and I have ven absent for several years I think your coment are lack of informetion, Chapala, ajijic. are in same county and chapala is losin water I am right
Posted by: Gilberto Rodriguez at May 24, 2007 10:55 PMThank you for the comments. $400 a month does sound affordable but I wonder how that compares to other countries (I was most recently thinking about buying in Brazil).
Posted by: James Trotta at May 27, 2007 5:24 PMthanks so much for posting this information ~ it sparked my interest, and now my husband and i are planning a short trip to ajijic this fall. we go to sayulita once a year, but perhaps now we'll have another favorite place to explore each year!
Posted by: kimbosita at June 1, 2007 11:31 PM