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Italy: The Pleasures of A Simple Life

In 1994, Michael Radford directed the movie Il Postino, a simple, heartwarming story of friendship between the unassuming mailman and the Chilean poet Pablo Neruda, while living in political exile in southern Italy. A famous poet and an unsophisticated village mailman would seem to have little in common, but in time the two find much to share and learn from each other.

Filmed on location in Italy, Il Postino has a small cast that included Philippe Noiret as Neruda, Massimo Troisi as Mario the Postino, and Maria Garza Cucinotta as Beatrice, a waitress in the village and the object of the mailman's affection. Choosing not to follow in his father's footsteps as a fisherman, Mario gets a job delivering mail to a single customer, Neruda. Having little education and being none too clever with words or the art of courtship, Mario is eager to learn poetry as a way to woo and eventually marry Beatrice. As he explains to Neruda, "poetry doesn't belong to those who write it; it belongs to those who need it."

Il Postino is a romantic story, much of which was filmed on Salina, the greenest and perhaps the most beautiful of the Aeolian Islands off the coast of Sicily. Loyal fans of Troisi who died the day after filming was completed, a few celebrities, wealthy yacht owners, and tourists visit here, yet Salina has not become a playground for the rich and famous or a tourist trap for the international traveler. It has remained relatively unspoiled even after the worldwide success of the film, which received several academy nominations including best foreign language film. It is simply a great place to relax, enjoy the food and wine, the weather, and the spectacular view overlooking the bay at Pollara. With six volcanoes dormant for thousands of years and a mild Mediterranean climate, the island is rich in over 400 types of vegetation including ferns, pines, chestnuts, and oaks, as well as a home for rare cats, rabbits, and other small wildlife. Travelers can climb the hillsides, explore the caves, visit the black sand beach at Malfa, or take boat excursions around the island.
Accommodations: Small houses, fully equipped, can be rented by the week or longer from $400 to $1500, for two to six people.
Getting there: Ferry service from Naples and Milazo, hydrofoil from Palermo and Messina.

The picturesque island of Procida, the smallest in the Bay of Naples, is remarkably different from many of the better known island vacation spots. Because of its natural beauty, colorful architecture, and friendly villagers, it offered an ideal setting for filming some of the scenes in Il Postino (as well as for the movie The Talented Mr Ripley). Not far from Ischia and Capri, travelers will find Procida quiet and serene in comparison, although some celebrities have villas and a few artsy types live here. Many visitors come on daytrips from Naples, while others find inexpensive accommodations for longer stays. Cottages equipped with kitchenettes can be rented for $30 to $60 p/p; hotel rooms average about the same. Some families will choose the pleasant campgrounds not far from the beach, open from 1 May to 15 Sep. Prices: About $10 p/p, $10.per tent.

Strolling around the ports, travelers will find the scent of lemons fills the air, as the gardens in Procida are famous and celebrated each year in May with the Fiesta del Limone. Besides the market, there are several restaurants on the island such as Il Cantinone, which serves inexpensive good food. Open Monday and Wednesday thru Sunday from 12 pm to 3:30 pm, and 7 pm to Midnight. Full dinner costs around $20. For some fresh seafood, spaghetti or linguine, pizza or a panini, Graziella by the sea is open 7 days a week, Mar thru Nov, from 10 am to Midnight. Prices: Average $7 to $10. A popular attraction in Procida and an excellent place to eat is La Locanda del Postino, the same restaurant/bar where filming of Il Postino took place. Located near the Abbey of St Michael the Archangel, this might be your first choice for atmosphere, a refreshing glass of beer or wine, or a delicious pasta dinner. Open Noon to 4 pm, and 7 pm to 11 pm.

Travelers who like the sand and the sea will find several not too crowded beaches such as Ciraccio, Chiaiolella (considered the best), and one appropriately named Il Postino. Scuba diving is very popular here, as well, available Mon thru Sat, from 9 am to 1 pm, and 3:30 pm to 7 pm. Cost: One dive and equipment provided - $40, and lessons average $68.

The Abbey of St Michael on Terra Murata, the highest point of the island at 300 feet, is just one of many interesting attractions in Procida. Inside this 11th century Benedictine monastery, gold, marble, and lovely old artwork adorn the walls, the apse, and wooden ceiling. You can visit the museum and library or wander through the catacombs of the dungeon below. A very special religious event, a tradition from the 17th century, takes place on Good Friday in the Procession of the Mysteries of Procida. Village people of all ages (mostly males) carry the floats of papier-mâché statues of Christ and other religious figures, which represent the mysteries and depict chapters from the Old Testament.
Hours: Open daily, 9:45 am - 12:45 pm, and 3 - 5 pm. Admission is free.

A main attraction is the Vivara Reserve, a treasure for birdwatchers, naturalists, photographers, and archaeologists. Once connected to the mainland and first populated in the Mycenean Age, this carefully protected islet is now accessible by footbridge from Procida. If you are able to visit here, you will find small paths throughout the reserve, which is inhabited mostly by over 200 species of birds, rabbits, and small animals. The single building on the reserve offers a great view of the sea and coast from the terrace.
Hours: 8:30 am - Noon, Mon thru Sat. (There was conflicting information on this, whether open to all visitors, only those with permits, or closed.)

Other attractions for tourists include the 17th century Santa Maria delle Grazie church, the small fishing village of Marina della Corricella, the Avalos Palace or Castle, the Seafood Festival, and the mid-August Graziella folklife Festival. You can shop for handmade fine lace and embroidery items, stop at a bakery for foccacia bread, or just visit with the locals in the villages. Nightlife is rather laid back, except on the weekends with the younger crowd.

Transportation: Taxis, buses, and rickshaws manage to navigate the winding streets, and bikes and scooters are popular. A 3 to 4 hour boat ride around the island costs about $10, an enjoyable way to view the three separate harbors of Procida, each with its own quaint fishing village.

Ferry service runs at least 5 times a day, a one-hour ride from Naples, $11 p/p.
Hydrofoil service, 7 times a day, a 30-minute ride from Naples, $10 p/p.
(Note: Information and maps available at the Marina Grande where the ferry docks. Open 9 - 12 pm & 4 to 7:20 pm)

Consider adding this small part of Italy to your travel plans - pleasure is often found in the simplest things.

Sharon L Slayton

Posted by James Trotta at July 21, 2010 11:45 PM